To begin with, let me introduce the distinct approach of this feature – a personalized analysis of fashion collections. Past & present. In contradistinction to a mere recapitulation or emphasis on prevailing trends, the raison d’être of this feature is to offer a discerning scrutiny of clothes and their creators. The ultimate objective of this feature is to furnish an insightful evaluation of fashion beyond its initial allure.

Fashion critics, who are increasingly rare in their willingness to express their real opinions, often identify a “lack of coherence” as a collection’s weak point. However, AW 22 season’s collection for Acne Studios, the use of contrasting elements was utilized to advantage, and the absence of a clear narrative was turned into a narrative itself.
Jonny exhibited a noteworthy demonstration of the brand’s denim heritage. The inclusion of upcycled and patched denim paperbag skirts, crini dresses, and an oversized garment-dyed denim skirt paid homage to the medium that had played a pivotal role in the brand’s success.
Notable pieces included the vividly over-dyed leather garments. Having personally owned and worn the jacket finished with this technique, I can attest to their even greater allure up close. The impeccable construction of the jackets,
coupled with the striking black streak finish, results in a timeless garment that my child will one day proudly wear, extolling the coolness of their mother.

The grandiose floral blanket dresses, lined with tufts and occasionally quilted, were necessary to match the patchwork of fabrics with a mix of clashing dimensions. Anyone who has worked with knit, especially fine knit, would appreciate the design engineering of the crystal-embedded socks. Their over-shoe styling and the grunge-inspired faded jersey separates tied together the hodgepodge of fabric prints and proportions

Moreover, stunning fringed curtain dresses were layered to create a unique aesthetic of calm amongst the riot of diverse looks. The collection was characterized by a rough and tattered delivery that was simultaneously well-conceived, showcasing the brand’s comfort with its identity.

Oh, Acne Studios’ Fall 2022 collection,
Though fair and novel, received but scant inspection.
Innovative design and vintage style did blend,
Yet still, few eyes its beauty did attend.
The bold “grandma florals” did make a stir,
With colors bright and pairings most obscure.
But such rebellion in fashion’s current state,
May have left some blind to its value great.
Upcycled denim, a noble cause to serve,
Did give this line an edge few could observe.
For though its vintage look did charm the eye,
Its modern cuts and details could not be denied.
Rugged grunge jersey, with its oversized frame,
And distressed details that bespoke of rugged fame,
Did add a touch of daring to the mix,
But perhaps, this style did not quite click.
Over-dyed leathers, rich in texture and hue,
Did add a note of punk-rock, something new.
Yet still, this collection seemed to fall,
Short of the recognition it deserved for all.
Oh, let this lack of due attention serve as a clarion call,
For recognition of beauty, be it classic or new, big or small.
May a more discerning and open-minded gaze,
Find value in the unique, and not merely the well-trodden ways.

WORDS BY BONNIE RYDER

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